Sled dog racing began as
a formal sport with the first All-Alaska Sweepstakes race
in 1908. Prior to this, Alaska's mushers had little opportunity
for recreation and they used their teams primarily for
work and transportation. Rules for the races were established,
and they provided a good diversion to the difficult living
conditions. In the 1920's, airplanes were gradually replacing
sled dog teams for transportation, freight hauling, and
mail delivery. In 1925, sled dogs proved that they were
invaluable during the "Great Race of Mercy to Nome."
In Nome, an outbreak of diphtheria threatened to become
a fatal epidemic. A 20lb package of antitoxin serum needed
to be relayed from Nenana to Nome. Twenty drivers and
more than 100 dogs were recruited for the run. Planes
were ruled out due to extreme cold (40 below and colder)
and if the plane crashed, the serum would be lost. Serum
was transported from Anchorage to Nenana by train. The
drive was a success, the serum was delivered and lives
were saved. The drive covered some 674 miles in less than
five and a half days. This, along with the simple commemoration
of the uses of the Iditarod trail, is the origin of the
Iditarod sled dog race.
2. Types
of Sled Dogs
Naturally, most northern breeds were used as sled dogs.
Alaskan Malamutes, Siberian Huskies, Eskimo Dogs, Greenlands,
Samoyeds, Norrbottenspets, and Hokkaidokens are all sled
dogs. However, lots of different breeds of dogs have been
and are used to drive sleds and carts. People use Irish
Setters, Dalmations, Golden Retrievers, etc., to enjoy
mushing sports. In fact, most modern day speed and endurance
mushers use mixed breeds (often Siberian crossed with
Greyhound). So, if you do not have a "sled dog,"
but still want to enjoy the sport, fear not, for most
any type of dog can be used. Mushing is fun, both to take
part in and simply to watch.
3. Mushing
Terms
Contrary to common belief, the word "mush" is
not used to drive sled dogs. Mush comes from the French
word "marche" which is from the verb "marcher"
which means to walk. Undoubtedly, the French used this
during gold rush days. The word "mush" is felt
to be too "soft" a sound to be used as a command.
Below is a short list of common commands and terms associated
with dog driving sports.
Hike: Get the dogs
moving
Gee: Turn right
Haw: Turn left
Easy: Slow down
Musher: One that drives sled dogs
Mushing: The act of driving sled dogs
Lead dog: Dog that steers the sled dog team and
regulates speed
Wheel dog: Dogs closest to the sled
Sled: Wooden rig the dogs pull in the snow and
on which you stand
Snowless rigs: Also called training carts. Take
the place of the sled when there is no snow.
There are many other terms common to dog driving sports.
One book that has a very good glossary in it is _Dog Driver_,
by Miki and Julie Collins. See the references section
for a complete citation.
4. Mushing
Equipment
The types of mushing equipment alone could cover many
pages: only the main points are covered here. The references
listed at the end of this section provide additional information.
There are two main types
of sleds -- basket sleds and toboggan sleds. Basket sleds
(also called stanchion sleds) are popular among sprint
racers and recreational mushers. They are fast on glare
ice and hard pack trails, and are also good in high wind
conditions. They are lightweight, and the basket is set
high off the runners, which can keep gear dry. Toboggan
sleds are more durable and stable than the basket sleds,
and they are capable of carrying bigger loads. They are
more rigid and generally less maneuverable than basket
sleds. The bed of the toboggan rides two inches above
the snow. These sleds handle soft snow better than their
basket counterparts. Both types of sleds are equipped
with a brake, which is a vital item. The brake is very
simple, consisting of a spring loaded wood plank attached
to the sled bed at one end and a metal hook at the other.
When riding the sled, standing on the runners, one simply
pushes down on the brake, driving the hook into the snow.
It is an effective method of slowing and stopping the
sled.
So, which sled? It depends
on what you want to do. Basket sleds are lighter and more
suitable for racing. Racing trails are groomed and hard
packed for speed. They can be used for longer trips and
camping. However, to carry more gear and run in softer
snow conditions, a toboggan sled would be better. For
the novice and/or once-in-a-while musher, the basket sled
is the best choice. They are generally cheaper and easier
to learn on.
In order to have your dog
pull the sled, it must have a proper harness. There are
many, but two main types of harnesses are the x-back and
the freighting, or weight pulling harness. For speed or
recreational mushing, the x-back harness is the harness
of choice. The harness is extremely important as it properly
distributes the weight of the load across the dog's muscular-skeleto
system. Of all the components of mushing, the harness
is the most important. The x-back harness is sometimes
referred to as a racing harness, but it is NOT strictly
used for racing. As long as the load is not too heavy,
the x-back is used for a wide variety of dog driving activities.
The harness should should be padded around the front and
fit the dog very well. Unfortunately, a picture is not
possible, and without that, it is a little difficult to
visualize. See the references for additional details.
The weight pulling harness
is used to haul heavier loads. Therefore, one would expect
to see freighting harnesses used in conjunction with toboggan
sleds. They are also used in competitive weight pulling.
They are similar to the x-back harness, except that they
are constructed to give the dog different freedom of movement
and different distribution of the load. The freighting
harness has one very important feature that the x-back
harness does not. At the rear of the harness, there is
a "spacer", usually a wooden rod that is about
as long as the dog is wide. While pulling heavy loads,
the rod is well away from the back of the dogs rear legs.
For recreational mushers, this wooden rod can be somewhat
irritating for the dog as it will hit the back of the
dogs legs when not loaded. Consider what you are going
to do with the dog(s) before purchasing or making a harness.
The line that runs from
the sled to the dogs is called a _gang line_. They are
simple to construct yourself once you understand their
function and geometry. The gang line consists of three
components. The first is the _tow line_, which is typically
3/8 inch polyethelene rope. It connects to the sled and
runs up *between* the dogs which are hitched side by side
on either side of the towline. To this, the _tug lines_
are attached. These lines are typically 1/4 inch poly
rope and are "braided" into the tow line. The
tug lines attach to the harnesses (which are on the dogs!).
The final component is the _neck line_. The neck line
is also 1/4 inch poly rope and is braided into the tow
line. The end of the neck line attaches to the dog's collar.
The dog does NOT pull from this under ANY circumstances.
The function of the neck line is to keep the dogs close
to the tow line, thereby maximizing their pull strength.
When out on the trail, you always want to have a spare
gang line, as the dogs may break theirs, or a tangle may
become so severe that the line must be cut to free the
dogs!
The next component of mushing
equipment is the snow hook. The snow hook is essentially
an "emergency brake" for the sled. When you
stop the sled, and must get off to untangle dogs or rest
or something, you can set the snow hook in the snow and
it will hold the dogs (and therefore the sled) in place.
They are remarkably effective. They are simple: a large,
heavy, metal hook, weighing a couple of pounds and about
12 inches in length. These can be purchased from a variety
of places. It is very important to attach the hook to
the rear of the gangline, not the sled. A strong team
of dogs can very easily tear a sled to pieces if the sled
is between the hook and the dogs.
The last pieces of equipment
to mention are the sled bag and dog booties. The sled
bag can be used to carry an injured dog or gear. In an
ISDRA sanctioned sled dog race, sled bags are a required
piece of equipment. They can be made or purchased. Dog
booties are used to protect the dogs feet from injury,
particularly on long journeys. They are typically used
when mushing on rough ice, when mushing along roadways
where chemicals from de-icing can be present, or when
driving the dogs on a snowless rig on a hard surface.
Booties can be made or purchased.
How about the cost? Well,
it varies, of course. The numbers below are typical.
Sled: $300.00 - 500.00
Harness: $15.00 - 18.00
Ganglines: $10.00
Sled Bags: $25.00
Snow Hook: $10.00
Booties: $1.00 (per paw)
The references section includes the names, addresses,
and phone numbers of some outfitters that sell this type
of equipment.
5. Skijoring
Equipment
Skijoring really only requires six simple components.
A skier (you!), a dog (or dogs!), an x-back harness, a
tow line, padded belt, and cross country skis. You MUST
know how to cross country ski VERY well to do this. The
harness has been discussed previously, there is no need
to discuss the skis, and the tow line is just that --
a line that connects you to the dog(s). This leaves the
padded belt. These can be purchased or made. The idea
is that you put the belt on, attach the tow line to it,
attach the dogs to it, and go! Some people prefer to use
a handle to hang on to rather than attach the dogs to
them. The handle can then be dropped if the dogs pull
you into trouble! Others feel that it is best to use a
belt and execute a controlled fall in case of trouble
rather than risk having the dogs injure themselves in
a tangle when a handle is dropped.
6. Weight
Pulling Equipment
The name of the game here is truly the harness. As discussed
above, the weight pulling harness is completely different
from the x-back harness, and THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE!
The weight pulling harness has side lines that connect
to a spreader bar at the hock, instead of continuing up
to the hips. This is important, because a single dog weighing
60 lbs may pull 2000 lbs!
7. Other
Equipment
Many mushers have a wheeled cart for training in the fall
prior to snow fall. In areas with insufficient snow, these
carts are used in competition. These can be purchased
or made by a good welder. Carts are a lot of fun, but
are difficult to come by, they can be difficult to control,
and they go *very* fast with enthusiastic dogs.
Some people use pulks in
the snow and carts in the summer to work their dogs. Carts
are small "wagons" that are used to haul small
loads or children. Pulks are carts for the snow (they
are like small sleds). They are used to carry equipment.
Carts and pulks can be made or bought.
8.
Training the Musher
Dog driving is not merely riding on the back of the sled
issuing commands to steer the dogs. It is work! If you
start doing it in earnest, you will pull muscles, fall
off the sled and have to pull yourself back on the runners
with one hand, run yourself ragged chasing after the team
(because you fell off of the sled), run into trees, and
so on. In addition to these things, a musher must "peddle"
the sled. This too can be tiring since it is repetitive.
Peddling is pushing the sled forward with one foot while
riding the sled. This is helpful to the dogs, particularly
when tired. You may also frequently get off to run alongside
when the dogs are tired. Therefore, to successfully drive
sled dogs, the musher must train his or her body as well.
Conditioning of the musher is to a small extent a function
of the type of mushing to be done. The key is endurance
and flexibility over muscle bulk. Running, biking, cross
country skiing and downhill skiing are all good ways to
build strength. You must remember that at all times, you
are alpha. If you are tired, hesitant, and uncertain,
your team will pick this up and become confused and unresponsive.
This can be particularly dangerous on longer journeys
into the wilderness.
It should be clear from
this that dogs in a sled dog team must be very well bonded
to the driver. Not only does it make training much easier,
but well socialized, well bonded dogs make a very good
sled dog team. The dogs are looking to you as their undisputed
leader, and you and they work together as a *team*. If
you are careful to bond to each of your dogs as individuals,
and socialize them very well with each other, other dogs,
and other humans, your dogs will be willing to do virtually
anything for you.
9.
Training Dogs to Pull
There are many aspects to training dogs to pull. Probably
the most fundamental is *start young*. Get a puppy used
to its harness, just as you would a collar and leash.
Also let the puppy get used to pulling things. Start out
with a small 2x4 (6 inches long) and let it drag the 2x4
around behind its harness for a while. The emphasis is
NOT on weight, just on having fun dragging a VERY LIGHT
weight behind it. It is important to realize that one
can injure a puppy's bones, structure, and spirit by doing
too much!
To train adult dogs, or
continue the puppy training as an adult, is relatively
simple. Some dogs are natural pullers, others are not.
Some dogs take right to the harness the first time, and
other dogs, even ones from reputable breeders, may take
extensive training. You just never know.
It is vital to get the dog
to lean out and keep the line between it and you taut.
Some dogs have a real problem with this, others do not.
For problem dogs, the cause usually is due to the dog
not liking you to be behind it. If you do have trouble,
there are a variety of methods you can use. As long as
you make training a fun game, and you make the dog understand
what you want it to do, training will progress quickly,
even for stubborn dogs, like Siberians. Fortunately, they
LIKE to pull, so their stubbornness is not a problem here.
Sometimes getting them to STOP pulling is!
Some mushers feel that it
is best to train dogs to pull lots of weight, then speed
comes naturally in a race without the weight. Others feel
that speed and endurance training is best. Still others
feel that a combination works best, similar to the combination
training for the musher. Training for speed and endurance
by mushing shorter distances (under 10 miles, sometimes
even 3 or 4 miles) at top speed and up hills is beneficial.
Loping along at 3 or 4 miles an hour for 15 or 20 miles
is also beneficial. Both of these build strength and endurance.
Pulling heavy weight for short distances is also quite
good, particularly for wheel dogs (the ones hitched closest
to the sled). For this, try a plastic tub to which you
can add plastic weights (the ones from barbell sets will
have the weights printed on them).
Whichever method you use,
remember to take it easy with your dogs and not push them
to hard, and never, NEVER, lose your temper with your
dogs. Remember that this is supposed to be fun for both
you and the dogs. George Attla, a famous musher once said,
"If the dogs make a mistake while out on the trail
remember that it is not the dogs that have made the mistake.
It is you." For additional training information (with
much more detail than is practical to provide here), see
the references.
10. Training
Lead Dogs
To successfully mush, one must have a good lead dog (or
dogs). This dog will take your commands for regulating
speed and direction for the entire team. Naturally, if
you are driving only one dog, that will be your lead dog.
Training lead dogs is too
complex to really do it justice here. The basics are you
want the dog to learn to turn right, left, speed up, and
slow down on voice command. You also want the dog to bypass
interesting detours and distractions. In addition to the
basic commands already introduced (see section 3), the
dog must also be taught the commands below:
kissing sound : Speed up
(or other appropriate sound)
on-by: Go by a fork in the trail, other dogs, or other
distractions without detour
All commands are spoken in a firm, calm, not too loud
voice.
During training, you must
be certain to use varied turns and trails to be sure that
the dog is really executing the commands rather than following
a well worn path. You must also anticipate the turn and
issue the command at the correct time from the *dog's*
perspective. Finally, some people get confused when issuing
the right/left commands, particularly in the excitement
of a race. Some mushers tape the commands on the front
of their sleds, on the right and left sides. You may want
to do this while beginning on the sled.
To train a dog to execute
these commands with regularity is not too difficult. To
train a dog to do this during the excitement of a race
with lots of distractions is more difficult. One possible
way to approach training is to start out on foot when
the dog is a puppy. Keep the lessons varied, quick, and
fun. Be certain to do the lessons in a variety of environments,
with and without distractions. When the dog is old enough
to pull weight (about one year to 18 months, get advice
from your veterinarian), you may wish to graduate to cross
country skiis. The dog will learn to execute commands
in snowy conditions, and at higher speeds. Once you have
your lead dog well trained and pulling your sled, you
will find that other untrained, young, dogs can be very
easily added to your team as your lead dog will "correct"
the new dog's mistakes, usually faster and better than
you can.
This is one way in which
lead dogs can be trained. Consult the references and experienced
mushers (if you can find any) for additional information.
11. Training
for Weight Pulling
Here emphasis is on strength and pulling straight no matter
how difficult. Most of the mushing books in the references
discuss weight pulling training.
12.Training
for Skijoring
Skijoring is you on cross country skis and the dogs pulling
you. YOU MUST BE A VERY GOOD CROSS COUNTRY SKIER. This
is a must. Before attaching dogs, cross country ski all
over the place, on a wide variety of terrain. Learn to
fall in a controlled way. You will eventually need to
do this when skijoring. You will need to learn to turn
quickly and ski in control at high speeds. Skiing downhill
in cross country skis is a good way to simulate skijoring
speeds.
The dog(s) must be well
trained as well. Train all of them as lead dogs. They
need to know and obey all of the commands very well (especially
whoa!). The references all include information about this
fast growing sport.
13. Health,
Diet, and Care -- Sled Dog Specifics (briefly)
Sled dogs are athletes. They are also remarkably healthy.
It is important to realize that because sled dogs are
athletes, they require special attention in at least two
specific areas.
Probably one of the most
important aspects for caring for sled dogs is the foot.
You should inspect your dog's feet regularly. The skin
of the pad should feel tough, but pliable, be resistant
to abrasions and lacerations, and be free from cracks,
dryness, or scarring. Also inspect the nails of the foot
carefully. Nails can help the dog grip ice, but if too
long, they can cause serious foot injury. According to
Miki Collins in _Dog Driver_, if the nails are long enough
to force the toes upward when the dog is standing on a
hard, level surface, clip them. Nails that are too long
can get caught and ripped out on the trail, or they can
cause toes to break. Both of these injuries can be quite
serious, and they are certainly painful.
The subject of diet should
also be touched on here. Most mushers feed a high stress,
high energy diet during mushing season, and switch to
a "maintenance" diet during the "off"
season. For example, one experienced musher mixes Science
Diet Performance dry with canned during mushing season.
This is a high fat, high protein food. Some mushers even
mix food in with lots of water hours before a race to
encourage drinking. Dogs must be very well hydrated. During
the off season, the musher in this example feeds Science
Diet Maintenance canned mixed with either Science Diet
Maintenance dry or Eukanuba dry. During the mushing season,
the dogs are using all components of the food that is
fed. During the off season, there is no need for such
high energy food, and in fact, high protein foods can
cause kidney trouble later in life when not fed in moderation.
14. Final
Remarks
Hopefully, this brief summary has been helpful to you.
Even if you do not want to get involved in mushing yourself,
try and find mushing events in your area. It is wonderful
to see the handsome dogs enjoying doing what they were
bred for.
