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THE FULFILLMENT OF A LIFELONG DREAM
MY JOURNEY TO NOME WITH MY SLED DOGS IN THE
2007 IDITAROD DOG SLED RACE
Summary:
I am writing this diary as my
own personal journal so that when I am old and gray I
can look back more vividly on the experiences that I just
endured. I share it will all of the people that showed
interest in my journey. I was occasionally able to check
my emails at checkpoints and I can’t tell you how
much your emails of support meant to me (all 473 of them!).
For most, this writing will be way too long and for a
select few maybe not long enough. This years Iditarod
I have been told by many was the hardest ever. I am so
proud of my dogs that we were able to finish even though
I was anticipating finishing days before I did. I learned
more then I could ever have imagined and my bond with
my beloved dogs and for this incredible sport has never
been stronger. I am truly blessed to be one of the lucky
ones to live their dreams. I want to thank my wife Melissa
and my good friend and dog handler Nate Van Gulden. I
could have never done this race without their commitment
and support.
Here is my story:
I grew up in Philadelphia. As a child in the late 1970’s
I saw on TV a news story about the Iditarod. I naively
said to myself I would like to do it someday. Through
the years growing up many things happened that eventually
made this childhood dream a reality.
As most of you know, I started a dog sled touring company
when I lived in Vermont and after a large expansion and
not enough snow last winter, my wife Melissa and I decided
to make the big move to Alaska and go for my dream. It
was more then a full time job making the move –
driving twice to Alaska from Vermont with my sled dogs,
building a kennel and a cabin, training my sled dogs,
Melissa starting a new job as a principal of a school,
but we managed to stay focused on my dream and after training
my dogs 2,500 miles in the fall, we found ourselves driving
to Anchorage on February 28th to begin the race.
We stayed at the hotel that was the race headquarters
and I was immediately struck how this event was so different
then your ordinary dog sled race. Reporters, mushers,
and fans from all over the world were there and it took
days to finally get on the trail. The pre-race meetings
and banquets, etc., were exhausting and I was more then
a little relieved to “pull the hook” on Sunday
at 2:46 pm in Willow Alaska. It was a beautiful sunny
and cold day – perfect for running dogs. I spent
the first few hours waving to the 10,000 or so fans packed
along the first 25 miles of the trail. It felt a little
like participating in the Boston Marathon which I have
done several times – the positive energy and enthusiasm
was extraordinary.
After getting onto the trail and away from the crowds,
my first task was to try and slow down a very strong and
well rested dog sled team. I stood on the brake for hours
and tried to control them. I realized almost immediately
that one of my dogs was not pulling and at the first checkpoint
43 miles from the start I had to “drop” my
first dog. I couldn’t figure out why Jake wasn’t
pulling, but I knew he would be transported home quickly
and taken care of.
I traveled about 60 miles on that first leg and pulled
over from the trail as my dogs were still flying. It is
difficult to stop and rest a fired up dog team, but I
knew that slow and steady would have to be my goal for
the first few days. I grabbed a bale of straw about two
hours before at Yentna (the first checkpoint) so I quickly
spread the straw out so the dogs had a warm bed to sleep
on. It was getting dark and about zero degrees when the
bright orange full moon started to rise before me. The
dogs were resting and quiet as I started to cook them
their first meal – the only sound was an occasional
whoosh of the runners when a dog team, focused in their
task, would silently trot by. I turned off my headlamp
and marveled at the orange moonbeams reflecting off the
snow and frozen river before me and finally came to grips
to the fact that I really completed one of my biggest
goals in life – I made it to the starting line of
the Iditarod dog sled race. It was an emotional moment,
one of many that I would have over the course of the next
two weeks that I shared with some of my best friends,
my loving and always faithful sled dogs.
After a full dinner for the dogs and myself, I jumped
into my sleeping bag and in my sled for a few hours sleep.
I wasn’t going to stay long, only a few hours so
I decided to leave the dog booties on which was my first
big “rookie mistake”. My alarm clock didn’t
work and I slept longer then I anticipated. I woke to
two dogs growling which is unusual and before I was able
to get out of my sleeping bag and to the dogs they snapped
at each other and one had a puncture wound on its leg.
The dog Payden was paired with a dog named Possum who
wasn’t part of my kennel, but was given to me by
a neighbor Dean Osmar who actually won the race in 1983.
It wasn’t the dog’s fault that they had a
disagreement, they just were not used to each other and
it was an unfortunate incident that would cost me other
dog early in the race (I had to drop Payden at the Finger
Lake checkpoint). After dealing with this dog “disagreement”,
I took off some booties and noticed in horror that my
dog’s feet had swollen so I had to wait a few hours
before putting more booties on. 9 ½ hours later
I left my camping spot and headed off to Skwentna the
next checkpoint. Before the race barely started, I was
already in the back of the pack because of rookie mistakes
and some bad luck.
It took my about ½ hour to get my supplies at Swentna
and I had to wait for a Vet for awhile to check my dogs.
I finally left and headed to Finger Lake. The leg was
known to be tough (mostly all uphill) and it was made
even harder this year since the snow had turned into like
sugar and I was traveling during the heat of the day.
With dogs that are still energized I tried my hardest
to go slow and be careful. I finally got into Finger Lake
only to find that my hardest driving male wheel dog had
hurt his shoulder in the corn snow and I was really saddened
to have to drop him from the race. If I had more time
to rest there, I would have tried to massage his shoulder
and rest him, but I really wanted to get on the next leg
before dark since the notorious “Happy River Steps”
needed to be crossed. I rested there about five hours
and was about to leave when I noticed a stool that was
black and tarry next to one of my lead dogs Possum. I
showed the vet and she strongly encouraged me to drop
the dog as it may be a sign of an ulcer. I reluctantly
drop the dog knowing it was in the best interest for my
dog, but I was very upset that now I was down to 12 dogs
with still 1,000 miles to go. Plus, I was losing my big
strong males – the power of my team that I would
need when climbing over the mountainous Alaska Range.
I quickly shortened my gangline to accommodate only 12
dogs. I was in a rush because I wanted to make it to the
Happy River Steps before dark and in my rush my two lead
dogs became unclipped from the team. Kiwi, my best leader,
started going down the trail without the team! I yelled
to the volunteers and quickly jumped on a snow machine
to follow her. All of my dogs in my kennel are trained
to go off lead and are used to it so I really wasn’t
that worried. She really didn’t go far and I sat
down on the snow away for the noise of the snow machine
and called her. When she heard me she came running up
to me and gave me a big lick on my face.
Back on the trailed with my smaller dog team, we didn’t
make it to the Happy River Steps before dark. It was alright
because the steps, even though they were scary and very
steep in places, were manageable and my dogs went down
them flawlessly. I congratulated myself and my team when
we successful negotiated the last one. I thought the rest
of my run in the next checkpoint (Rainy Pass) would be
easy. Little did I know the worse was yet to come. The
trail became like sugar again and traversed mountainsides.
It was hard to keep the sled upright since we were not
following the fall line and it was very dark even with
my headlamp – no full moon this time to light the
way. I was exhausted and dripping of sweat when I went
flying around a sharp right hand turn and nearly missed
a tree that was lying in the trail. Immediately after
the tree, I hit an ice cliff and slid about 100 feet down
it slamming my sled in some trees at the bottom. I couldn’t
believe that this was part of the trail, but continue
to the next checkpoint. The trail finally leveled out
and I noticed it had become more windy and cold.
Arriving at Rainy Pass around 10:00 pm exhausted and with
low bloody sugar, I quickly ate something and got the
dogs bedded down. It was cold and the wind was howling.
Quickly, I felt, the control of my race was unraveling
as I kept hearing stories of other musher’s mishaps
and injuries. 82 mushers started this race and all of
the best and most experienced ones in the world were in
the field. The news was disheartening to say the least
to an inexperienced and scared rookie: Doug Swingley,
a four time champ, broke his ribs on that ice fall and
scratched, Dee Jowroe, a 25 time veteran broke her fingers
there and scratched. A lot of mushers were stuck at the
checkpoint and I shared a very small cabin with about
30 other participants. After about a half an hour I was
able to find a place to sleep underneath a bed as bodies,
most of them snoring were everywhere.
Upon waking, more bad news was told to me. The temperature
was minus 22 and winds were constant at 30 to 40 mph resulting
in “life threatening conditions”. To make
matters worse, Rainy Pass which we had to go over had
winds clocked at 80 mph. Four mushers left in the late
morning. I was beginning to prepare my dog team and hoping
that the winds would subside, when the mushers returned.
It was “white on white” up there and teams
of dogs were being blown off the trail. Speaking of the
trail, it was nonexistent by now and the trail markers
had been blown away. I learned of more causalities and
in all 11 mushers ended up scratching at the Rainy Pass
checkpoint. I spoke with Dee Dee, the veteran of 25 Iditarods
as she was preparing to get herself and team flown out,
and she said she had never seen it this bad in Rainy Pass
in all of her years.
I waited another long night there and just wasn’t
prepared mentally to be put in a situation that was so
life threatening. The apprehension was compounded by witnessing
all the people scratching and all the suffering that was
going on. I had completed many 100, 250 and 300 mile races
in preparation for the big one, but there always seemed
to be some sense of control and it was very rare that
anyone got seriously hurt. Here, it seemed almost like
a war zone and I told my wife on my first phone call back
home that with exception of being in a war, I couldn’t
think of being in a situation that was more scary or out
of control. I witnessed lots of frostbite and broken bones.
Several people got lost up on the pass (one musher for
36 hours). I was told that 14 bones were broken on that
on one hair pin turn.
I left the checkpoint after being stuck there for 32 hours
and managed to make it over Rainy Pass in below zero temps
with winds of 50 to 60 mph. It was one of my biggest challenges
and I mentally completed the task well and was in absolute
awe of my dogs. My dogs never faltered in their challenge
and fought through the blizzard for hours while I spent
the entire time trying to keep my sled from being blown
off the treeless tundra ridge.
Leaving the winds, I now have to endure the challenge
of the infamous Dalzell Gorge. Right before the start
of the gorge, I came across a musher named Kelly Williams.
She is the girlfriend of Rick Swenson, the only five time
winner of the race. Her dogs did not want to go and she
said she was going to scratch at the next checkpoint if
she can even get there. It took about half an hour for
my team and two other teams to get around her.
The gorge, with little snow cover was one of the scariest
sections of the trail. I managed to get down it, crashing
into several trees and ripping my sled bag. The gorge
was similar to Huntington Gorge in Vermont, but a little
wider and was glare ice for most of the way. Upon leaving
the gorge, I had my first broken runner plastic which
I was able to fix by adding extra screws to the bottom
of my sled.
Getting into Rohn, which was just a small cabin in the
middle of nowhere, Jasper the caretaker cheerfully exclaimed
“I have been managing this checkpoint for 13 years.
It has never been this cold and windy. The thermometer
has been stuck at minus 20 for days and that doesn’t
count the wind.” I planned to stay there for around
six hours and run with my friend Sasha. He was running
a yearling team for Iditarod champion Doug Swingley. He
was from Serbia and became a great friend on the trail.
He took off about 20 minutes before me. I was about to
leave and I was getting anxious because it was getting
dark and I knew I had a large river crossing immediately
upon leaving the checkpoint when one of the checkers came
up to me and explained that there was “new overflow”
on the Rohn River and they needed to reroute the trail.
I waited for another hour or so and anxiously left in
the dark. It was now snowing, and I couldn’t see
the new trail markers on the river. My dogs got confused
in the overflow and turned around so I returned to the
checkpoint dejected. I knew I should have helped my leaders
find the markers by guiding them, but the blizzard and
winds were so intense that I could only see a few feet
in front of me. It was definitely another low point in
my race compounded by the fact that I knew that I had
one of the hardest 90 mile legs in the whole race immediately
beyond the Rohn River and I had to do most of it in the
dark. Back at the checkpoint, I met up with a cheerful
musher named Jeremy Keller who explained that it is experiences
like these where you really bond with your dogs and learn
with them. He sensed my depressed and anxious mood and
said that he planned to leave in about half an hour and
that I should follow him out and he would lead the way.
Three of us did that and we went over that overflow in
a blizzard. It took about a half an hour since it was
almost a mile long crossing, but my dogs and I grew immensely
from that experience. I didn’t know it at the time,
but it was critical that my dogs learned how to handle
and traverse over ice and overflow, because miles more
of it lay ahead down the trails when we hit the Bering
Sea coast.
Once over the river, I had to stop almost immediately
to fix my plastic runners again. Note to rookies; always
examine your sled at every checkpoint to see if your sled
needs repairing before you get back onto the trail. I
ran the remainder of the night alone over the famous “Farewell
Burn”. We were told that there was 56 miles of boulders
with little or no snow and I struggled all night to keep
my sled upright. I hit several trees and my sled bag ripped
open completely on one side. I ended up losing my dog
scooper and my axe. Completing the first half, I camped
at a place called the Buffalo Camp (which was not a checkpoint)
finally getting to lie down at 4:00 am. I left the next
morning and my runner plastic almost immediately started
to come apart from the runners again. I couldn’t
fix them anymore because the screws kept coming out as
I bounced from one boulder to the next and I didn’t
have many more screws left. I prayed that I could make
it to the next checkpoint Nikolai. Sore and bruised, I
reached Nikolai.
I was elated as I knew the boulders were over and the
next leg was flat. At the next checkpoint (McGrath) I
had another sled that I shipped in before the race. I
used the last screws that I had to fix the runners and
had a beautiful run to McGrath. The dogs loved the flat
rivers and were moving at a fast clip.
I rested in McGrath and changed my sled. I decided to
borrow the sled that Paul Gebhardth used during the first
section of the race. He had lent me one that was there
that was identical to his, but I like his better since
the foot pads were not as loose. I left for Takotna with
my new sled which was only 18 miles away. However, about
half way there I went around a turn and the entire metal
runner snapped in two. I couldn’t believe it. The
sled must have been damaged by Paul during the first part
of his race. Once in Takotna, I called the race marshal
and he suggested I hire a local to go back to McGrath
by snow machine overnight and pick up my last remaining
sled which I did.
The next morning I took off with my friend Sasha and we
went to Ophir and rested a few hours. We knew we had another
very challenging section of the trail coming up. A sign
from Rick Swenson in McGrath said. “Three foot holes,
lost trail markers and 90 miles of frozen tussocks from
Ophir to Iditarod.” I wondered how I would ever
be able to withstand the trail and stay on my new lighter
sled.
I left Ophir in route to the ghost town of Iditarod around
4:30 pm. In a few hours the sun would be setting and the
trail in the beginning was pretty good. I was all alone
following the setting sun with out anyone around me for
20 miles or so traveling to Iditarod. It was an amazing
feeling and I was feeling really good just moving along
singing to my dogs when the trail changed dramatically
– the trees disappeared and frozen tussocks began
to appear. They are just like boulders, but are made of
frozen dirt. I bounced off these tussocks for hours and
followed matted grass which was the trail for hours. Just
as it was getting dark, I lost the trail. 20 or 30 miles
from another human being with temps near zero and a clear
sky, it was going to be a long cold night if I didn’t
find the trail soon. With the help of my trusted leader
Kiwi we finally found the trail again after about a half
an hour of searching. I was so relieved.
I continued onward to “Don’s Cabin”
which was just a structure without a door or any heating.
It was a long cold night as I slept in my sleeping bag
and woke to temperatures of 25 below. I spent that entire
day traveling to Iditarod and going over more tussocks.
It was the hardest day on the trail and I got flipped
and rolled continuously. Ever mountain pass or rolling
hill that I went over was followed by another and you
could see for miles and miles not a tree in sight. It
was one of the longest days of my life. I finally made
it to Iditarod in the late afternoon relived that I survived
that section of the trail- both kneecaps bruised, my entire
body aching. I had to drop a dog there named Venus and
she was immediately flow out to McGrath since planes were
flying in. The planes carried sleds since many mushers
completely destroyed their sleds in the tussock fields
in route to Iditarod. I was emotional when I said goodbye
to Venus. A small young 2 year old female she pulled hard
all the way and made it so far, but she just wasn’t
eating enough and she was getting thin. She didn’t
want to leave the team, but I knew it was the right thing
to do. My eyes were filled with tears in admiration as
she was loaded on the plane and took off right in from
of me to go home.
The night in Iditarod was peaceful and restful. I had
camped my dog team on the frozen river and like many of
the nights before it was a very clear, cold, and star
filled night. Around midnight, I woke and was treated
to the most beautiful display of northern lights. It was
a special moment as I witnessed one of mother’s
nature’s greatest visual gifts and I reflected on
the fact that we were about halfway to Nome. We were getting
there!
Early the next morning I pulled the hook and prepared
myself for the long journey to Shageluk. The leg consisted
of seemingly endless rolling hills and the trail was soft
in places. I had a hard time keeping my sled upright on
many occasions. We finally reached the other side of the
mountain range and knew that the large mountains were
behind us for now.
I was prepared to leave Shageluk around midnight for an
all night run. I bootied my dogs and it was very cold.
I decided at the last moment to wait for morning. I don’t
know why I had that feeling, but felt something was just
not right. The next morning, I left at dawn and ended
up getting lost for three hours. I was very emotional
in my sleep deprived state and finally found the trail
again. I came into the next checkpoint after almost 7
hours on the trail only to find out that I was actually
lost the entire time and I missed a checkpoint (I went
from Shageluk to Grayling and missed Anvik). I learned
that the musher before me (also named Bruce) went from
Shageluk to Grayling and missed Anvik as well. It was
obvious then that my lead dogs had smelled his trail and
that is why I got lost.
The race judge said I did not have to go back to Anvik
since I spent more time on the trail while I was lost
getting to Grayling then I would have if I just went from
Shageluk to Anvik to Grayling. I spent the night in Grayling
and woke up in a miserable state. I spoke with one of
the mushers named Kelly Williams - the one I met right
before the Dalzell Gorge days before where she told me
she was going to scratch because her dogs had stopped
moving. She told me that after I passed her that her dogs
were a different dog team and she was so excited to still
be in this race. I told her I was going to scratch. I
had learned that the other Bruce after getting lost the
night before was hypothermic when he arrived into Grayling.
I was thankful that I listened to my gut instinct and
didn’t make the run from Shageluk to Anvik to Grayling
overnight. If I did and I got lost like him who knows
what might have happened. However, it was small comfort
to me. I was done. I keep witnessing hurt and injured
mushers. Everyday came more horror stories and more mushers
scratching and I wanted out. I couldn’t imagine,
in my sleep deprived state, still having to go another
450 to 500 miles. Kelly told me just go to the next checkpoint
and decide then.
I took off on the Yukon River. It was very cold, 25 below
in those predawn hours, and the wind was blowing in my
face. That was normal though. It seemed that no matter
where we were going the wind had always been in my face
over the last week. I was reflecting on the fact that
I had 200 miles on the Yukon River and it would take days
of mind numbing travel to get to the end in Kaltag (if
I made it that far) when I noticed that my dogs were really
putting it into another gear. Hour after hour these dogs
continued on that flat and wind swept plane (the river
is four miles wide in places). They were cruising along
and when I stopped every two hours to snack them they
would bark because they wanted so badly to get going.
I thought then, that if they were so eager to accomplish
this journey, then I should stop being the weak link and
give them all of my strength. We were going to finish
what we came to do as long as they were so strong and
committed.
After 60 miles on the windy river, we pulled into Eagle
Island and the checker proclaimed “Wow, you got
here fast. We were not expecting you for hours. You are
way ahead of schedule. It took Martin Buser like 10 hours
to get here”. I said thanks and commented that my
dogs were well rested. I knew they did great. They amazed
me. Looking at the time sheets now, I realize that he
was not joking. What took Martin Buser, one of the best
musher on the planet to do in 9 hrs and 24 minutes took
my dogs 6 hrs and 3 minutes. Yea, maybe he encountered
more wind then I, put I didn’t care. All I knew
was that my dogs were one tough solid unit, getting stronger
by the day, and they were eating, dedicated, and happy!
I left Eagle Island after another long rest. By now, I
had no desire to race the race, but just finish with happy,
healthy dogs. We had another long day on the river ahead
of us – it was 70 miles until we got off the river
at Kaltag. Four hours into our journey, I see in the distance
what I thought was another dog team. Sure enough, it was.
It was the other Bruce (Bruce Milne) who I had been traveling
with off and on for days and the one who got hypothermic
back in Grayling. His dogs had stopped on the river and
he had been stuck there all night. 14 hours of wind, dark
and cold. He said he had tried everything he possible
could, but his lead dogs were done. He said that he almost
“lost his toes” the night before from the
cold and that he couldn’t spend another night on
the windy river. My dogs went right around his team and
were lunging at the gangline when I grabbed his lead dogs
and tried to pull them to get them started. I almost pulled
my arm out of my shoulder socket as my dogs took off,
but his dogs would not go. I told him I would make sure
that I told the checkers in Kaltag that he was stranded.
As I told my team “let’s go” and as
they darted away from him, I reflected on the fact that
could have been me, but instead my dogs were loping against
the wind more determined then ever to get down the trail.
It was another emotional moment for me.
After another fast 70 mile run to Kaltag, I immediately
told the checkers that Bruce had been out there all night.
They were a little embarrassed that he was out there that
long without any assistance, but they told me that he
had a pattern of camping out on the trail a lot and not
using the checkpoints (which was true – I passed
him many times when he was camping on the side of the
trail) so they thought he was just camping. They sprung
into action and with in hours the whole dog team and Bruce
were at Kaltag. This was no small feat considering he
was stranded with 14 dogs about 45 miles away from the
checkpoint. He ended up being the last person to scratch
from the race.
As I was arriving into Kaltag, I noticed that one of my
dogs was starting to slow down. It was a small female
named Click, a dog I purchased a few years ago from Jeff
King. She had been such a trooper and had worked so hard.
Her story started back before Shageluk when I was going
up a steep embankment right before the checkpoint. For
whatever reason, the back leg of hers got very close to
another female in the team named Cobb who took a quick
snap at her. Unfortunately, Cobb managed to cause a tear
in her leg. It didn’t affect her gait and she was
still pulling as strong as ever so I made the decision
to keep her on the team. It was obvious in Shageluk, she
was feeling no pain at all and the vet (who had traveled
all the way from Australia on his own dime to volunteer
for the race) did a marvelous job in stitching her up.
The problem was the stitches became undone because hind
area moved so fast when she trotted down the trail that
the wound was open again. The vet in Kaltag immediately
put stitches in her again and she was on the next plane
to Anchorage where my handler picked her up the next day.
After being on the trail for over a week and waking in
a warm room, it was hard to get motivated when the checker
told me in the predawn hours that it was 35 below outside.
Oh joy, another cold day. I got on the trail early because
I had a long 90 mile run to Unalakleet. The trail immediately
left the Yukon River and thankfully we were traveling
mostly uphill and along flat sections of the trail in
the woods which really helped keep me warm since I had
to work to help the dogs get over the hills. Little did
I know that these would be the last trees I would see
for the rest of my journey. We traveled for about 6 hours
to “Old Women’s Cabin” where I bed the
dogs down in the afternoon sun and rested for 4 hours.
Back on the trail, we went directly west right into the
setting sun. The trail became very fast and flat and the
dogs loped for hours as I struggled to see where we were
going with the sun right in my eyes.
We arrived into Unalakleet about 11:00 pm. I discovered
that I had my first problem with my insulin pump. My blood
sugar was extremely high (over 500) so I assumed that
my insulin had frozen. I had planned for this and had
5 sets of insulin and supplies forwarded along the trail.
Unfortunately, for some reason, they were not distributed
and all of the supplies were in Nome. Luckily, Unalakleet
has the largest population of any checkpoint (about 900
people) so they had their own health center. A nurse there
was kind enough to open the health center at 6:00 am and
supply me with some insulin. The Iditarod Race Committee
then flew my supplies from Nome on a private plan to the
next checkpoint so I would be able to restock my supplies.
I left Unalakleet and immediately hit some of the worse
section of trail in the entire race. It was gravel and
rocks for miles. We then started over these large mountain
passes that went on for hours. It was very difficult since
a lot of the time I had to push my dog team over gravel
up these hills. After several hours I finally came to
the last climb. One of the most memorable moments met
me on the other side. I stopped at the top of this climb,
looking down 2,500 feet to the frozen Bering Sea. You
could see the dog sled trail in the distance 10 miles
away. The view was incredible and it seemed that I could
see for a 100 miles. My dogs had pulled me across the
state of Alaska. We have made it to the Bering Sea. This
realization was overwhelming to me.
After a steep decent to sea level and about 10 miles of
flat travel, we pulled in to Shaktoolik. I don’t
know why anyone would choose to start a community there.
The community of 300 or so was living on an outcropping
of rocks which was located between two water bodies. No
trees or shelter from the howling winds. The winds were
intense and I had to next traverse 58 miles in this wind
swept environment over Norton Sound. I was told before
the race that this leg can sometimes be the hardest on
the dogs. I decided, after resting the dogs, I would leave
about 1:00 am. At 1:00 am the winds were blowing so hard
that I decided to wait it out a few hours for the safety
of myself and my dog team. I left about 5:00 am and was
able to witness another beautiful sunrise as my dog team
traversed the ice boulders on the Norton Sound. It was
another long monotonous run into the wind all the way,
but again the dogs performed their task with incredible
drive.
I arrived at Koyuk around noon and rested the team during
the heat of the day. We left for the next checkpoint Elim
which was 48 miles away at about 7:30 pm and it was a
nice mostly flat uneventful run. The next morning, I realized
we were getting close to Nome and we ran through the heat
of the day to White Mountain. We had to run through Golivan
Bay which was 7 miles of glare ice. I never thought I
would be able to run a dog team over ice of that length,
but my dog team had learned, like myself, from our journey
and made the trek look easy. Once we got off the glare
ice, my dogs increased the pace and we loped into the
setting sun for about an hour up the river to the White
Mountain checkpoint. I just stood there smiling. I marveled
at their speed, their strength, their confidence, and
mostly for their outright joy that they showed me as they
loped into that setting sun. A lifelong dream fulfilled,
I knew my team and I were going to make it to Nome.
My last feeding, as the sun set behind me and yet another
clear, cold, starry night began to appear over the river,
was one that had me filled with mixed emotions. All the
pups were contently sound asleep basking in the sun on
their straw after another long run through the wilderness
of Alaska. By now, they knew how to do everything that
I ask of them and they knew that even if the run was long,
or mountainous, or filled with wind in their faces for
hours on end, that I would snack them every two hours
like clockwork, that I would take care of them, and that
I would never let them get too tired. They knew that the
run would eventually end and at its conclusion, a massage,
a warm bed of straw, and a warm meal awaited them before
they got to take a long deserved nap. They had this Iditarod
Race conquered. We as a team did it. They depended on
me and I depended on them. Mother Nature gave its all
to defeat us, but we in the end, we as a team, prevailed.
My dogs and certainty me would be changed forever from
this experience. Unexpectedly, sadness also prevailed
in my heart. The race was so challenging this year, the
weather so brutal. I had been witness to so many mushers
getting hurt and scratching that I just wanted to survive
and finish. Now, knowing that I was almost there made
me sad that it was over. This emotion surprised me. I
had experienced something that was so special, that so
few in today’s soft society of cell phones and movie
rentals would ever experience. Most could never even imagine
it let alone experience it. Most people are content to
watch a story on TV while lying on their couch in their
comfortable home. I didn’t watch one, I made one.
A story that no one will ever be able to take away from
me. A story that was devoid of cell phones, of paying
bills, of car repairs, etc., a story that took 15 days
to complete with no safety net to catch me if I fell,
a story that was all about one thing: traveling across
1,150 miles of some of the toughest terrain on earth in
some of the worse weather on earth with having only one
goal in mind - taking care of your best friends, the ones
you depend on for your survival. Nothing else mattered
for over 15 days of my life.
I pulled the hook from White Mountain in the still of
the night at around 4:00 am and made the last 77 mile
run into Nome. It was going to be another beautifully
cold sunny day. We went over some mountains in the dark
and saw some more amazing views as the sun made its appearance.
The last incredible sunrise. We had to sidetrack a pond
of glare ice for almost an hour where my dogs were really
tested. We were pushing through ice, rocks and stumps.
My trusted leaders (Kiwi and Maya) were hypersensitive
to my commands as they darted right and left as I called
out “gee” and “haw” when I was
trying to find the trail. I reflected on this when we
were in the middle of this situation. Never in my mind
did I expect to be able to do what I could do with this
dog team, but that last experience of getting lost we
resolved pretty easily. The danger was there, but more
important was the trust and bonding that we had as a single
unit. I felt like we could do anything as a team. We found
the trail eventually again and went over a few miles of
gravel for good measure before checking into the Safety
checkpoint – the last checkpoint on the Iditarod
trail.
Twenty two miles of good and mostly flat trail lay between
my team and the burled arch in Nome and the last few hours
was one of complete celebration as the town of Nome got
closer and closer. We sang and played and my team knew
it was all coming to an end. We heard the siren sound,
used to alert residents that a dog team was arriving,
and I stopped to give my fearless dogs one more snack,
kiss and long hug. I cried with joy for about the last
hour of our journey thinking about how many years I waited
for this moment and the commitment it took to get here.
I wiped my face, said “ready” “let’s
go” one last time, and trotted quickly up front
street in Nome to the waiting crowd to fulfill the dream...
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